Bob Kellock's

ex

AndrewHall

 



Journal of work done since bought

 

Things that need attention  (Green bold type)

Things that were listed as needing attention and have been done (Green bold strikethrough)

Links to associated documents
Warnings in red

Work or write-up in progress or a comment (Italic)

 

There are many references to drawings. These were produced using Autocad 2000 and converted to PDF format. In many instances the items were not made exactly as drawn particularly in terms of dimensions. Also some drawings were updated after manufacture and incorporate features that should improve the item but have not yet been incorporated.

 

1. 11/9/00

Bought.

 

2. 13/9/00

Car collected from Queensgate Place Mews and driven to Fonthill Abbey.

Charging circuit failed during journey but enough life left in battery to complete journey.

Fire extinguisher & bracket removed.

 

3. 14/09/00 - Dynamo

Dynamo removed and stripped. Brushes very badly worn & stuck in holders. Front (pulley end) bearing dry and probably knackered.

Brushes cleaned up bearings lubricated. Dynamo re-installed. Chassis dynamo mountings are pretty poorly made and belt tensioning is by cable ties!. Dynamo protection from external oil is by a pendant wadge of gaffer tape!

Charging still somewhat erratic.

 

4. 16/09/00 - Dynamo

Got another Lucas C40 dynamo (£8) from Langfords (breakers).  Examination showed it to be in fairly good order. Stripped it, cleaned, lubricated and painted body. Replaced pulley with that from the knackered dynamo. Also made and fitted 3 pillars to commutator end plate for fitting a protection plate. (Protection plate not yet made - thinking of using part of an old ally saucepan - Done, see 23/07/01)

Chassis dynamo mountings fettled and new bolts fitted.

Belt tensioning now by a long Jubilee clip instead of cable ties. Functions OK but is still rather inelegant so a proper belt tensioner should be made. Done see #26

Charging still dubious.

 

5. 18-23/09/00 - Charging and electrics

Took ignition/lighting switch panel out to determine its functions and made a wiring diagram for the car.  (See Description & Drawing). Winston seems to have cocked up a bit.  Switch panel modified and some re-wiring done as described in those docs.

Kenlowe fan de-wired and removed.

Charging now seems to be OK.

 

6. 24/09/00 - N/S rear brake

Find out why N/S rear brake is binding.

Had to pull off hub, after making a thrust piece for the puller, as the brake drum is fitted to it with setscrews & nuts whereas I believe it should have had studs fitted to the hub.

In due course make a ring with tapped holes in it, which sits behind the hub, so that the drum can be removed without pulling off the hub. Use bolts rather than setscrews.

Check if other wheels also need same treatment. Done – see 34. Other rear does, fronts are OK (studs) 

Made a crude tool for checking concentricity of linings.

Bottom one was way out and did not have a steel pad on the shoe. Even after making and fitting quite a thick pad (about 3/16") it doesn't look too good on concentricity.

Braking system needs a good checkout on all four wheels.

Shoe pull-off springs seem rather pathetic. Try to get some suitable ones.

Doesn't bind anything as badly as previously.

 

7. 25/09/00

Made brackets for mounting cast front number plate and fitted it.

Made bridging plates for front floorboard fixings

 

8. 26/09/00 - Reverse gear selector

Reverse gear selector slide tends to move away from disengaged position when selector finger is on the forward gear side of cheese-cutter sometimes making it exceedingly difficult to move to the other (reverse) side of the cheese cutter: also there is a risk of reverse being inadvertently engaged.  Made detent by tapping a hole in the cheese-cutter & fitting a round head screw to it and filing a corresponding V slot in the reverse gear slide.

 

9. 27/09/00  - Wiring and lights

Both sidelamps and one headlamp not working.

In-line connector under front offside bargeboard had corroded contacts.

O/S headlamp wire was to wrong terminal - corrected.

Sidelamps both had bad earths.  Temporarily fixed with shakeproof washers but connection seems to be to ally mudguard which probably oxidises. Need to make good earths.

 

One tail lamp rear glass missing - has thin pale red plastic glued in. Made retaining ring and cut a disc out of an old car tail lamp.  "Glass" needs to be about 49mm dia x 3mm thick.

Look for a couple of round translucent reflectors that are at least that diameter which can be fitted in place of glasses - I think that reflectors are a legal requirement.

 

10. 29/09/00 - Tax disc holder, odds & sods

Tax disc holder.  Think that rear part of new (unfitted) tax disc holder that came with car looks rather ungainly.  Made Perspex disc that sits inside the new holder's bezel (so not seen) with tapped holes for fixing bezel to it and for fixing it to the car.  Fitted to N/S side of bonnet.

 

Fitted knob (RS 686-008) to switch that used to be used for Kenlowe fan. Knob was tapped M4 but screwed on to #10 UNF switch shaft OK!

 

Found and fitted knob and locknut to starter switch.

 

Made new bush for radiator mounted central bonnet hinge pin.

 

11. 30/09/00 - Battery & carrier mainly

Battery is not holding enough charge - knackered.  Got new one (Exide) of same nominal type (#895). Old one was Lucas which had same overall dimensions but body of battery was slightly reduced in size below the top deck.  New one wouldn't fit in battery carrier which was pretty crudely made anyway with likelehood of welds damaging the battery casing.

Made new battery carrier with 1/4" Tufnol base carried on temporary studding (metric) & spacers (3/8 gas pipe).

Made new battery lead clamp fasteners so that you don't have to get right into foot well to undo/do up terminals.

 

Had to disconnect exhaust from engine in the process and found that the exhaust flange studs were actually studding and that the nuts where some weird size which no standard Whit/AF/metric spanner fitted. Need proper studs and nuts. See #14

When refitting exhaust system, cut splits in pipes so that the clamps actually clamped.

 

12. 1/10/00 - Starter motor

Starter went U/S - possibly because of decent current from new battery. See Document.

Starter motor had had its locating spigot removed because it has to be mounted eccentricly in the crankcase hole to get correct meshing of gears. Fixing holes in starter flange had also been filed out so there is no positive location of the starter.  The crankcase is tapped for a starter with three fixings but the current one only has two holes. Starter position has to be got correct for radial meshing by adjusting before finally tightening set screws - pretty nasty!

Ian Lock (2/10/00) says starter needs moving back a bit from the crankcase housing to get full axial engagement so an adaptor plate can be made up which he has done in the past but doesn't have any drawings.

Barry Price (3/10/00)  has what sounds like a more appropriate starter (£75) which he is sending on approval for me to have a look at.

Starter is working at the moment but I don't think that it will last for long.

 

13. 2/10/00 - Petrol cap

Turned down top of filler cap, fettled and painted. Made new brass vent for it.

 

14. 3/10/00

Studs, nuts & gaskets ordered from Barry Price for exhaust flanges. To be fitted

 

15. 4/10/00

Breather pipe (connected to blanked off alternative oil filler hole) & catcher pipe/bottle removed.  Connection blanked with 3/8" BSP brass plug & fibre washer

 

16. Undated  - Steering

Fixed steering wheel rim to spokes after removing tape and ineffective woodscrews. Drilled out rim and tapped including wooden core. Made brass bushes - threaded internally and externally. Rim now fixed with countersunk metal thread screws to spokes. Plating of spokes is poor. See #47 & #82.

 

Present nut and bolt fixing of steering hub to column is hideous! Spot faced sides of steering wheel hub and refitted to column using a stud, crinkle washers and acorn nuts.

 

Steering box has more play in it than it should have. Steering removed from car. Box lid has only two screws - both of which are loose!  Decided to use studs and nuts rather than screws because there is not much depth of thread for screws and some threads in box are a bit dodgy.  Drill and tap them out a little bit deeper (1/4" Whit). Counterbores for old screw heads not big enough to get a spanner on to nuts so studs made over-length with spacers between lid and nuts.  Side of box drilled and tapped BSP and plug fitted for filling box with oil (D140).  Meshing of gears adjusted with shims.

Steering box mounting bracket (looks to have been recently made) has tapped holes for clamping piece which is fixed with bolts.  Length of thread engagement is poor and one has given up already.  Dilled and tapped deeper. Clamp now fixed with studs and nuts.

 

Steering column bearing slightly misaligned so that side load is being put on steering box column bearing. Filed out holes in instrument panel and made stainless cover plate to hide slots in panel. Upper bearing (bush) is also angularly misaligned with column. Shortened bush and put packing washers between bracket and rear of instrument panel.

 

Ideally there should be a UJ at the bottom of the steering column and the top bearing should be self aligning.

 

17. Undated  - O/S rear brake

Locked up completely on hard application when reversing.

Like the N/S one (see 24/09/00) one shoe didn’t have a steel thrust plate.

Made and fitted new thrust plates for both shoes out of 1/8" oil hardening steel plate.

Made new pull off springs out of old bed springs by prestretching them to give what seemed a reasonable tension. Note that they must not be too strong because the hooks which are part of the ali shoe castings are not very strong.

Now seems OK - the N/S one should have the same treatment.

 

18. Undated  - Front brakes & braking general

Strictly speaking the Perrot shafts are not Perrot shafts because the Nash’s Alford & Alder braking system differs from the Perrot system (where the inboard end of the shaft is located at the chassis rather than the front axle)

Front brakes stripped down.  Claw on N/S? Perrot shaft had expanded and mechanism was binding except when wheels straight ahead. Steel sleeve on outside of ball and claws was damaged.  Reversed steel sleeve after making new anti-rotation slot and general cleaning up. Perrot shaft claw pressed back to correct shape and cleaned up.

Made brass spacers to replace bits of copper pipe on Perrot shafts.

Drums & linings in good order. Shoes and pivots seem ok. (See 58) Pull off springs probably a bit on the weak side but not replaced yet.

Operating levers fitted to Perrot shafts had been transposed: actuating angles were different and not at optimum.

Re-transposed(!)

Both front brake cables are too long. One is at limit of adjustment and the other is very near.

Need new cables of correct length. (see #85B)  Need blanking plates for bottoms of king pins in stub axles. (see #57)

 

With rear brake adjustment slackened right off the brake action is quite spongy.  Nearly all of it appears to be due to distortion of brake drums when braking load is applied.  Drums are made of quite thin steel (thought to have been spun)  Radius of drum at centre of lining expands at least 0.5mm under hard brake application.

Consider alternative brake drums: Triumph Gloria, Riley Pathfinder or Bentley Mk VI are all said to be adaptable.

Blue Diamond has a set of Pathfinder drums, backplates etc available for £75.

 

With a fair amount of fiddling of brake adjustments the performance is now much better but still has scope for improvement.  I suspect that the linings that Andrew had fitted just before I got the car are too hard.  The Allifin man recommended a type of lining but I failed to note it!

 

19. Undated  - Horn

Old style (rusty) Morris Minor horn got from Langfords (£5). Restored and painted (painting not very good as pitting of dome can still be seen - needs improving.)

Mounting bracket made and fitted.

Vintage style (but phenolic instead of Bakelite) horn button got from Europa Specialist Spares (£20.42).

Wired and wiring diagram updated.

 

20. Undated

Tapped plates screwed to underside of seat floorboard for fire extinguisher mounting.  Extinguisher can now be readily removed or fitted.

Tacky aluminium panel fitted to floor for starter switch and isolator replaced with a decently made one in stainless steel.

Made bush to let into floor for cheese cutter control shaft.

Seat and middle floorboards painted after filling spurious holes

 

21 Undated - Rocker box

Fit of oil filler cap to rocker box is poor. Rocker box top is convex and oil filler base is flat.

Machined counterbore in base of filler and made "O" ring which now provides satisfactory seal.

Cap fixed with stainless steel socket cap screws and acorn nuts.

Rocker box rubbed down working from 80 to 400 grit and finally polished.

 

22. Undated  - Trim

Fixed with #6 raised head self tappers and screw cups. Rear N/S one not holding well as it had been previously fixed with a #8 screw (the only one for all the trim!) when the hardboard had been broken. Needs to be sorted

 

23. Undated - Hood and screen + Aeroscreens

Finally got hood and windscreen.

Drilled through body skin for hood frame pivot bolts.

Jury rigged hood and screen.  Screen does not fit body correctly and hood is too short i.e. screen would have to right up to edge of scuttle which wouldn't leave enough room to fit the tonneau.

Pretty pissed off about that as part of the deal was that the hood and screen were included and, implicitly, suited the car. Contrarily, even if it did fit, it would probably be almost impossible to get into the car with the hood up as it no longer has a door.

 

Allen head of one grub screw clamping banjo of Aeroscreen broke when trying to loosen it. Couldn't get screw out so ordered new bracket from Vintage Supplies. Need to replace grubscrews with stainless steel ones as the black ones rust & look pretty nasty.

 

Fitted all Aersocreen brackets  with better looking screws (round head, nickel plated brass)

 

24. Undated  - Throttle linkage

Cranked rod from pedal to bellcrank replaced with a straight one.

Bellcrank bushed.

Longer rod from bellcrank up to carbs made and lever on butterfly shaft repositioned - improves geometry as accelerator was too sensitive at small openings.

Ball joints are in a poor state and have to be adjusted so that they are quite slack in some positions to avoid binding in others.  Get new ball joints.

 

25. 20/07/01

MOT - passed without any problems.

 

26. 23/07/01 + several days. - Clutch and others.

Clutch release seems to have got worse and there is a noise which seems to be coming from it.

(1) Signs of the OD of the unlined plate rubbing on one of the pillar nuts and the plate appears to be loose relative to the prop shaft.

(2) OD of spigot bearing partially projecting from hub bolted to flywheel.

(3) Fixed plate rubbing quite strongly on rear lined plate when clutch is fully depressed.

(2) & (3)  suspected to be due to spacer between Hardy-Spicer and bevel box pinion driving flange being too short.

Probably need spacer of correct width.

Removed complete prop shat/clutch assembly after removing gear change, handbrake and clutch cross shafts.

Dismantled clutch.

Pillar nuts incorrectly orientated (flats should be facing centre of plate) - accounts for (1)

Three rivets fixing fixed clutch plate to hub missing and the other three are loose.  Obviously hopelessly bad rivetting from signs of hammer marks.

Had new rivets put in by Precision Clutch, Stalbridge. (£18.80)

Orientation of pillar nuts corrected which will fix (1)- used Studlock on them.

Clutch separator springs fitted (over pillars of toggles)  Each half length of RS Components 121-185. 17.25mm OD 1.25 dia wire.

N/S end of clutch cross shaft and bracket were fouling body making it almost impossible to get the assembly back into the car - filed them down.

Made crude main clutch spring compressor tool. (Drawing)

Clutch release now better (but still scope for improvement) & noise has gone.  Check to see if wider spacer would be beneficial. Try some washers as a first (temporary) step

Made plain protection plate for rear of dynamo (see 14/09/00 & 16/09/00) -(couldn't find suitable old saucepan.)

and a proper belt tensioning device.  Further work in dynamo in #63

Made proper battery box mounting studs, spacers etc i.e stainless and aluminium (see #11) + battery lifter as it's a pig to get in and out.

 

27. 29/07/01+ Starter

Starter failed again (as predicted -see #12).  Tried fitting the starter from Barry Price: mounting flange is correct but pinion (same as the old starter) is too big. Used body and brush plate of Barry's starter with armature and front plate of old starter as the latter has been hacked about to allow it to be offset from the centre of the housing bore.

Present pinion has 10 teeth - possibly a 9 tooth one (if ever made) might give the right mesh or a 10 tooth one of smaller D.P. Investigate pinions  No suitable pinion available for size of motor shaft.

 

Oil leaking from rocker cover - replace gasket

 

Seemingly no smaller  pinions were made for the M418 starter motor. The Meadows literature states that the starter pinion has 10 teeth but it seems probable that it was a smaller diameter than that of the M418 starter as the drive shaft was much smaller.  The only practical solution appears to be to make a spigotted offset adaptor. A suggestion for the design and method of manufacture was sent to Winston Teague - see Drawing.

 

28. 31/07/01  Water leak

From or near bottom rad hose connection - investigate.

 

29. 3/08/01 Aeroscreens

Stainless grubscrews received and fitted to all but the bracket with the broken screw. Need to fit the new bracket which came from Vintage Supplies.

 

30. 7/08/01 Aeroscreen

New bracket fitted.

 

31. A loud clank coming from the rear the first time the brakes are applied fairly hard after the car has been unused for a day or two – this is the first time of noting it although it’s been happening for a while – investigate – see #33.

 

32. January 02

Speedometer

Made dashboard mounting for bicycle speedo and fitted speed pickup to N/S of rear axle.  Used RS 361-4933 reed switch and matching magnet (361-7011)  instead of supplied bicycle switch & magnet. Bracketry for it & dash mounting in Drawing.  Only temporarily wired – to be done properly.

 

A long period of Nash inactivity followed while I was doing up Notting Hill to sell followed by refurbishing the Elms.

 

August/Sept/Oct 04

33. Made rear jacking block.  Pulled off rear hubs and drums to investigate clank – nothing obvious in there but noticed that O/S Hartford was virtually solid and suspect that that may have been the cause of the clank noted in #33. All 4 Hartfords to be overhauled – rear upper mountings look as though they need some beefing up.

 

34. Made new rear brakedrum bolt retainers. Drawing.  Also see #6.

The hub retaining nuts on the ends of the rear axle are 7/8 x 14 TPI so are, presumably, UNF. Decided to use plain nuts with Nordlock anti-vibration washers instead of castellated & split pins. UNF nuts & Nordlocks to be obtained.

Check periodically that they are tight

 

35. Removed engine for various mods etc. Rear O/S engine mounting thread in crankcase knackered. Both rear engine mount threads (1/2” BSF) to be Helicoiled.    Lower radiator mounts to be improved.

 

35A. Made new clamp for holding distributor drive to magneto platform. Modified distributor and made new clamp to replace hideous Lucas one - Drawing.

 

36. Removed magneto drive for painting.  Suspected there was something wrong & stripped it to find that it was a crackpot design – see Drawing and Description. Painted body and rebuilt with new (sealed) bearings with mods as shown in Instructions having made mandrels and guides for dismantling and assembling.

 

37. Polished or painted various engine accessories.

 

38. Drilled though tee bolt holding front offside core cap and fitted brass dome nut so that block can be drained.

 

39. Made new rear endplate for cylinder head and pipework in 54mm copper pipe & end feed elbows to replace hideous convoluted hose which chafed on various things and hid the dipstick.  Cut away part of the (unused) front offside engine mount to provide clearance. There is a clamp for the 54mm pipe fitted to the brass cover of the original oil filter housing which was very thin were drilled for fixing the clamp – soldered in a thick steel washer to beef it up.  Note that front ouside nut for filter cover is ¼ BSF tapped out to 5/16 as there isn’t room for a spanner for a full size nut.  The brazing of the elbow to the new rear endplate (done by Allan at Semley) wasn’t very neat so it was tidied with Plastic padding. Fitted drain plug to lower part of pipe.

 

40. Made new bracket for oil filter.

 

41. Made threaded bush & fitted to bulkhead so that radiator tie rod can be removed/fitted without struggling to get at the nut under the scuttle.

 

42. O/S front mudguard stay modified (by Allan at Brian Trowbridge, Semley) so that it doesn’t clash with the draglink ( Drawing)

 

43. Made new ¼” BSP brass plugs (to replace cut off bits of ½” UNF screws!)  to blank balance pipe? holes in intake spigots of cylinder heads.  Hex heads were milled by Mitchells at Chicklade.  (Drawing)

 

44. Modified one starter motor (using the flange which had been graunched by Andrew Hall) per Drawing.

Spare starter (with 3 bolt flange) to be done.

 

 

45. Noticed that magnet of speedo pickup clashes with side of undertray when axle at  full rebound undertray to be modified.

 

46. Designed new carburettor  adaptor flanges (Drawing) as those made by Andrew were hideous and could not be modified because the counterbores were so large that there was practically no meat between them and the main bore.  Nick Ourousoff is turning and drilling the blanks.

Blanks subsequently received, profiled and fitted.

 

47. Steering wheel plating to be sorted. See #82

 

48.  Clutch

Dismantled clutch to modify it to prevent the “Clutch accident”.  Noticed that the centre plate key had sheared despite the nut having been tight and (I think) the tapers having been lapped when previously assembled.  Needed a press to break the taper (The Landrover place at Semley).

Keyways in hub and shaft are slightly different widths and old key (bits lost when plate pressed off) could have been made of mild steel so might have sheared when tightened up.  Get proper key steel – see #64.

Fulcrum pins of clutch not long enough for the standard mod. of drilling cross holes and fitting split pins.  Ends of fulcrum pins tapped M5 and ¾” thick washers made and fixed to fulcrum pins with countersunk socket head screws – Loctited.

 

49. Undertray modded – see #45.

 

50.  Carb flange blanks received from Nick. (see 46)   Profiles cut and studs(3/8 BSF threads but 10mm shank) made.

 

51. Pivot pins for front brake Perrot shaft levers to cables made (Drawing)

 

52. Bottom radiator fixings made (Drawing)– rubber washers made from an old engine mount. (see 35)

 

53. Exhaust manifold studs fitted (see 14)

 

54. New studs made for water plates fitted to front & rear of cylinder head.

 

55. New brace for front cross member made out of 1” x 1” x 7/32 stainless steel angle.

 

November 2004.

 

56. New blanking plate for original dynamo mount made. Sealed by O ring fitting in bore of housing. Drawing

 

57.  Front hubs & stub axles

Removed front hubs and backplates.

 

Made & fitted new blanking plates for bottoms of king pins in stub axles (see 18) and for speedometer drive housings in backplates.

 

The hub/stub axle arrangement (Drawing) appears to be non-standard The inboard bearing is a 6206 which is normal Nash but the outboard is an LJ6  which matches the stub axle but the hub has been sleeved down from the normal Nash 6204 OD to that of the LJ6. The main castellated hub nut is 5/8” x 22 ?? TPI but 7/16W hex. which is neither BSF nor UNF ???. Holes in hubs do not align with split pin holes in in stub axles. Had holes elongated by Mitchells. The hub backplates appear to have been made fairly recently, e.g. when Andrew Hall built the car, and there are no oil seals.

Obtain and fit new sealed bearings (remove inner seals).

Made new washers for either sides of outboard bearings.

 

58. Front brakes

More or less contrarily to what was said in #18, the shoes and cams are not in good order. The corner radii of the cams, which are the critical parts, are fairly rough and the cast-in steel pads at the end of the shoes are rutted by the cams.  Removed the ruts by filing and sanding (Drawing).

 

Investigated radii of brake cams to give equal movement for both shoes for given rotation of cam (see Workshop manual page 61).  Those shown in Drawing give a very good approximation to identical motion.  Baynton-Jones in Shaftesbury could grind them for about £150.

Nick Ourousoff is going to reprofile them for me.

 

58A. Bought brand new C40 dynamo on Ebay (£16 + p&p) – to be fitted.

 

59. Fitted Helicoils for rear engine mountings in crankcase.  Made locking tabs for rear engine mounting bolts – see Drawing.

 

60. TDC finder, timing pointer etc.

There is no TDC or any other timing marker. Made TDC finder & pointer. Painted roots of starter ring teeth with TDC and colour coding for ignition timing – see Drawing.

 

61. Made tappet adjusting tool – see Drawing.

 

62. Dipstick was a very rattly fit in the crankcase. Made two sleeves with an ‘O’ ring trapped between them which fit over the original shaft. Also turned down original shaft in locality of ‘O’ ring to make a good fit with the ring.

Lower sleeve fixed to original shaft with countersunk M2.5 screw – Loctited.

‘O’ ring is BS210 nitrile.

 

63. Made new dynamo mounting bracket & one long bolt + spacer for fitting dynamo to bracket. When removing/fitting the dynamo remove/fit dynamo complete with bracket. The two bolts for fixing the bracket to the chassis are specials and are prevented from rotating by one flat being adjacent to one of the lugs.

Fitted the new dynamo after making new studs in stainless steel for protection plate and tensioner bracket in light alloy as previously made ones (in plain steel) were rusting.

 

64.Made new stepped key for centre clutch plate to propshaft. Drawing.

.

65. Undertray was in a very poor state particularly where Andrew had cut a bit out of the side to fit his high-tech dynamo belt tensioner i.e. cable ties. It was also fairly badly cracked in several places.  The tray is attached to a lightweight sub-frame which also carries the petrol tank and tail lamps.  The workmanship of the frame is not very good but it is adequate for its purpose. The fixings of the tray to frame were poor (cable ties at the rear!) and most had worked loose or come out altogether.

The fixings of the sub-frame to the chassis at the back (the two in the middle of the A-frame and the two diagonal braces) were difficult to undo and would be a nightmare to replace because of difficult access to the nuts and the need for some force to get alignment between the sub-frame and chassis holes. The nuts have now been replaced by tapped blocks fixed to the chassis and podging screws (i.e. screws with their leading ends turned down to root diameter and a point) have been made.

The front tubular cross-member of the sub-frame extended beyond the fixing lugs and had gusset plates welded on which made it impossible to get a socket onto the fixing bolts. As the gussets were superfluous they were cut off.

The tail lamp brackets welded to the sub-frame prevented removal of the petrol tank without detaching the sub-frame.

About the last 2” of the frame tubing with lamp brackets were cut off and modified to be bolted. Fixings are M6 S/S cap screws.

Undertray sub-frame shot blasted and zinc sprayed

The tray is now fixed to the subframe using clamping strips and fasteners with Nylocs (because the sub-frame tubing is very light gauge the fasteners cannot be done up tight enough to prevent vibration loosening without distorting the tube).  The worst of the cracks in the tray have been plated over. A new tray should be made in due course but is of fairly low priority.

When fitting sub-frame to chassis:

1.        Insert and finger tighten the two front fixings.

2.        Insert and finger tighten the two A-frame fixings (shorter ¼ BSF podging screws)

3.        Insert and finger tighten the two diagonal struts (longer ¼ BSF podging screws)

4.        Insert and finger tighten the vertical screws into the short uprights (3/8 BSF podging screws)

5.        Spanner tighten up all fixings

 66. Dashboard refurbished

 

67. Not used

 

 


             Items covered by #68 to #85 were previously written up but got trashed and have been rewritten;  they are not in chronological order.
 

 

68. Petrol tank,  piping and rear number plate

The weld of one of the studdings (MS)  to the tank retaining straps (SS) was about to break. Cut new studdings from M6 stainless and had them TIG welded by Mitchells (£25).

Drilled new holes in cast number plate (from front of car) with corresponding ones in the straps and fitted it to the rear of the car. This replaces the nasty plastic stick-on figures on the petrol tank. The plastic black-on-white number plate which Jimmy Lever had made for me has been fitted at the front pending getting a  proper one.

There was no positive location for the rear of the tank (when viewing from the back of the car). Made rubber stops.

The tank had a slight seep around the drain plug which had been unsuccessfully sealed with what looked like Plastic Padding. Stripped the PP off and painted around the joint with Frost’s POR-15 which is flexible – seems to have worked OK but should have periodic inspection.

Most of the petrol pipe routing and workmanship was atrocious. All the pipework from the carbs to the pump is new. Rather than leaving it routed around the O/S engine mount the mount was drilled and tapped BSP so that fuel runs through it. New pipework clipped to the chassis.  Fuel pump fixings modified as it was a struggle to get if on or off.

 

69. Bulkhead, radiator tie rod fittings and ignition coil wiring

Made new clips to fasten water temp gauge capillary to the radiator tie rod plus a bracket to support the rev counter cable  - see Drawing.

Moved ignition coil from its former position and made new brass bracket for it (Drawing). Ignition coil painted black.

Wire from ignition coil to switch now routed through a bush in the bulkhead.

Lead from ignition coil to distributor now clipped using lower carburettor fixing studs.

HT lead from coil to distributor now in length of 10mm copper tube with bellmouth ends. Tube is clipped to rear of upper carburettor fixing studs.

Pipe to oil pressure gauge now via a bulkead fitting and banjo unions.

Bulkhead fitting made for rev counter cable and temp gauge capillary.

Spacers made for voltage regulator mounting as, when bolted without them, there’s a likelyhood of cracking the plastic.

 

70. Exhaust system

Made new brass clip for exhaust pipe tail.

Made new mounting which supports the exhaust in front of the front silencer using a rubber “cotton reel” mount plus strap and exhaust pipe clamp.

 

71. Wrinkly step

Made a step for easier getting in and out of the car. Uses a modified cast alloy step from Complete Automobilist (Part no. CA747). Original design (Drawing) was a drop off because the brake cables weren’t in position and I forgot to allow for them.  The step is readily detachable when not wanted.

 

72. Headlamps and sidelamps wiring and mounting

The original headlamp mounting lugs were welded to the cross tube so there was no provision for adjusting their vertical angle. All wiring was external and  clipped with cable ties.

Chopped off the lugs and fitted Rose+Krieger type RXE 0025 cross clamps after boring them out and painting. They allow for adjustment in pitch and yaw.

Stanchions drilled and bushed near their tops to allow cables to be routed internally.

Made new terminal blocks for the headlamps (Drawing) with three terminals instead of the original two in anticipation of having the headlamps modified to take double filament bulbs.

Copper pipe (1/4” ?) soldered to the underside of the cross tube as a conduit for the cables from the headlamp terminals to the side lamps.

Individual cables (2 core as I didn’t have any suitable 3 core) for each side now run down each stanchion (which are bushed at their bottom) and are terminated with a 3 pin circular plug which is small enough to pass through the stanchion bracket.

Wiring from the lighting switch is into a small plastic box mounted on the inside of the chassis frame on the offside close to the radiator: the box has two sockets to mate with the plugs.

Currently the box is cracked and needs replacing.

The offside stanchion bracket clamp wouldn’t clamp the stanchion properly and a sleeve was made to take up the slack.

The lower ends of the stanchion brackets have been fitted with M6 grub screws to provide additional support and a positive earthing contact. They must be slackened to remove the stanchions.

 

73. Steering arms, drag link and track rod

New springs fitted to ends of drag link and track rod.

It was impossible to adjust the track rod screwed cups because of their proximity to the brake backplates: a tool was made for this purpose (Drawing).

A tool (Drawing) for extracting the steering arms from the stub axles was also made from an old extremely heavy duty G cramp.

 

74. Countershaft

There was excessive axial play in the reverse gear shaft: brass spacer made to take it up.

The grease nipple of the offside chassis mounted bearing was inaccessible and a mod was made so it could be readily greased.

 

75. Spare wheel mounting

A new leather strap arrangement was made, very nicely, by Craig Leary.

The front support bracket was modified because the spare rubbed on the body. This was a minor drop-off as it is now difficult to lower the nearside bonnet without loosening the spare.

 

76. Jacking the car

Although I’d made a piece of timber that fitted under the undertray sub-frame which is OK in the garage for lifting the rear end it would be useless with a flat tyre without an extremely short jack and would also need to be carried in the car.

A Citroen 2CV jack has been modified so that the drive hex is reorientated by 180° and a bracket has been made to hook under the front axle (Drawing).

For the rear wheels remove the rear floorboard section and insert the jack so that its hook fits under the outer radius arm plate. Insert a piece of card (old fag packet) between the jack head and the body trim so that it doesn’t get scratched. Ensure that the jack hook is properly engaged with the radius arm.

 

The jack, the front axle adaptor. the wheel spinner clouter and spanners are stored under the seats  floorboard (see Drawing and Picture). A stubby screwdriver is stored on the nearside of the car tucked between the body panel and framework just beyond the dashboard.

The screwdriver can be used to remove the three floorboard fixings and the jack from its mounts. The two spanners are retained by a wing nut. The 10mm is needed to release the clouter and the front axle adapter. The 19mm ratchet spanner is for operating the jack.

 

76.  Floorboards and fixings (see  Drawing)

Plates to cover joints at fixing points for sections 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 were made previously – item  #7.

There was no rear fixing for section 3 on which the seats are mounted which made the seats unstable. As there was no room for access for fixings at the sides because of the seats a central fixing was made – see detail “E”.

Sections 4 and 5 were fixed with 5/16 setscrews with their heads projecting above the boards. They are now fixed with countersunk M5 screws with screw cups in the boards. The sloped part of section 5 is now properly fixed to the flat part.

 

77. Bargeboards and bonnet

It was impossible to remove the N/S bargeboard without detaching the exhaust pipes from the engine. Its bearer has now been sawn in half so it is now possible to remove it after removing the fixings for the N/S lower bonnet side panel.

The O/S bargeboard can be removed without detaching the drag link but, for both bargeboards, it is somewhat of a Chinese puzzle to get them out or in.

The N/S lower bonnet side panel flapped about a lot: The front and rear edges have been stiffened up with light alloy strip and a central fixing to the engine has been made.

A new bonnet tape was fitted to the radiator.

The top front N/S corner of the bonnet was damaged when in storage and needs to be repaired.

The bonnet catches need attention.

 

78. Electrics. (Drawing).

Control panel: Track from A (ammeter+)  to A1 (centres of the ignition and lighting switches) cut. Added wire from A1 of the control panel to A1 of the voltage regulator. That makes the system comply with the normal Lucas arrangement when using a RB106 voltage regulator.

Clips and guide made for starter motor cable. Starter motor terminal insulated.

Because of difficult access to the battery, jumper lead/battery charging terminals have been added to the floor  panel near the battery isolator switch. (see Drawing). The insulated caps can be unscrewed to connect jumper  leads but charging can be carried out with them in position using 4mm banana plugs through the holes in the caps.

Wiring to the head and sidelamps changed – see item #72.

A new starter motor cover  strap was made to replace the rather tacky Lucas one. (see Drawing)

Note that the dynamo, starter motor and voltage regulator are now all new with the exception of the flange of the starter motor which is from an older one which was modified per item #44.

 

79. Stoplamp switch mounting.

Adjustable bracket made – see Drawing.

 

80. Tool for centreing propshaft front spigot bearing.

Self aligning bearing doesn’t self align when trying to insert propshaft. Made tool to hold it aligned during insertion.

 

81. Gear lever and handbrake fixings & caps

Made blanking caps to cover ends of tubular cross shafts. Fixings are now studs with acorn nuts at both ends.

 

82. Steering wheel spokes

As noted in item #16 the plating was poor and it has since got much worse. As the ends are coated in celluloid it couldn’t be replated without recoating the ends.

Scraped and sanded the worst of the loose plating but quite a bit remained. Has been painted but still looks a bit tacky. Made a ring from about 1mm stainless to cover the area where it bolts to the hub. Also made a new hub.

Steering wheel to be refurbished when there’s some spare cash.

 

83. Not used.

 

84. Hartfords and rear mounts

Hartfords were stripped and the worst of the rust on the steel friction faces was sanded off – see Drawing.

New Beech discs were made to replace any in a poor state – immersed in oil for several days before fitting.

Locknuts for the friction adjustment were made by drilling and tapping M12 nuts to M14x1.5

The spacers used for for the chassis mount at the rear were rather poor. New ones made – see Drawing.

 

85. Brakes

85A.  Brake drums/shoes concentricity

Rear brake shoes and linings were known to be appreciably eccentric to the drums - see item #6

A ring of 10mm mild steel was made with the same bore as the brake drums and a concentric OD: it was scribed at 5° intervals and angular values were marked.

A fixture was made which, at one end,  bolts to the brakedrum flange and at the other carries a clock gauge and a counterbalance was made enabling the gauge to be stable at any angle (see Picture).

A lever was made to actuate the brake plus an arrangement to apply a repeatable load (see Picture)

When the ring is placed over the brake shoes and lever is used to expand them then its OD is concentric with the effective centre of the shoes and linings. When the axle is rotated the clock gauge measures the relative eccentricity between the linings and the axis of the axle: the latter is also the centre of the brakedrum when fitted.

The ring is orientated so that the 0° line faces the brake shoe pivot. Readings of the clock gauge are taken at regular angular intervals (30° is more than good enough provided the readings are correctly read and recorded but is needed to spot any false recordings).

A computer programme was written (BRAKES3.EXE*) which enables the clock gauge readings to be input for each angular step and then calculates the eccentricity and shows the result typically as :-

Move shoes 0.835 towards 90 degrees point

Move shoes 0.126 towards 180 degrees point

 

Obviously it is not practicable to move the shoes in the 0°/180° direction as that would require the fulcrum pin (which also serves other purposes) to be moved but they can be effectively moved in the 90°/270° by thickening the steel pad on one of the brake shoes: it is probably more important that the error is smaller in the latter direction anyway.

During testing the thickness of the steel pad can be effectively increased by placing packing between the pad  and brake pad and  repeating the test and thickness of the packing until the optimum result has been achieved. A new pad can then be made with a thickness of the old one plus that of the packing.

Packing between the top shoe and cam moves the effective centre of the shoes down (towards the 270°point) and vice versa.

 

* Brakes3.exe is a 16 bit DOS programme which may not work on more recent versions of Windoze, or computers running under different operating systems, without an additional utility for running DOS programmes e.g. DOSbox (which is free).

 

A similar arrangement was made for the front brakes (The ring was made from an  old alloy car wheel and has an oversize bore due to a machining drop off but there are brass shims to correct the error) See picture and picture.

Although eccentricity was found for both sides at the front it was a good deal less at the back. It would  really need to have eccentric fulcrum pins made with lots of trial and error. As the front brakes are now working well and the flexibility of the drums probably compensates for the eccentricity, no further work is planned.

 

 

85B. Brakes – odd jobs

Following on from item #58 the front brake cams were reground by Nick. Combined with cleaning up the pads on the shoes improved the braking performance considerably.

Brake lever pivots were rather poor – just bolts and nuts. New ones made – see Drawing.

Had front brake cables shortened by Speedy Cables instead of getting new ones as proposed in item #18.

One of the N/S rear brake shoes had a crack. Made pieces of steel to match the shape of the shoe around the cracked area, glued in with Araldite plus screwed fixings.

Rear footbrake cables were (and still are) a bit nasty. They look as though they came from a yacht chandler; they are OK at the rear end but at the front they are wrapped around 3/8” screw eyes (threaded BSF) and have a cable clamp. The fairly long loose ends were wrapped, ineffectively, with wire and insulating tape! The wrapping has been replaced by stainless steel  sleeves. Need proper cables.

 

85C. Brakes – adjustments

With a solid rear axle it’s impossible to know how much braking effort is applied at each rear drum using any conventional brake tested. A point-and-shoot laser thermometer is used to check and adjust the rear balance and is also useful for checking the front balance.

Braking tests were carried out using a Tapley meter independently for the front and rear ends by completely slackening the adjusters for the end not being tested: Tapley breaking performance for various settings of the adjusters were recorded. Both sets were then set up with the aim of getting 60:40 balance of front and rear.

Managed to achieve nearly 85% efficiency on the Tapley.

 

 

86. Ignition timing gauge. July 2011

See Drawing and Picture

For setting the timing when the automatic advance is in the fully retarded position

Is located by partially encircling the stem of the distributor – which has an index line – and by an adjustable stop on the underside which is pressed against the body of the distributor housing.

Calibration: Provided that the distributor has not been removed or it has been removed but the engine not turned and it has been replaced with the distributor arm pointing in the same direction as before removal (a one tooth error  on meshing of the gears is about xxx°of distributor rotation so it is easy to see if it is wrong) the procedure is:

(1) Ensure that the distributor is set to roughly the same position as it was previously.

(2) Start the engine and adjust the distributor position until it will hold a steady idle speed.

(3) Check the actual advance angle using a strobe from cylinder #1 and noting the colour sequence of the flywheel tooth gullies centred on the timing pointer. Use drawing to convert the colour sequence to the advance angle.

(4) Adjust the stop position of the gauge so that the indicated advance angle matches the angle obtained from (3).

 

86. Speedometer and bump stops. August 2011.

Speedometer stopped working. Preliminary inspection showed that the cable from the sensor bracket to the junction box had been damaged without apparent cause. A replacement sensor, with integral cable, was bought plus a length of Entex spring part #2605 to sheath and protect the cable.

When it came to fitting the new parts it was noticed that the sensor bracket had been bent also and it seems  that on extreme bump it can come into contact with the Admiral’s arch. When that occurs the suspension spring deflection is very large (about xxx” from the static position) which is thought to be excessive. That could be avoided by fitting bump stops or, possibly increasing the setting on the Hartfords which may be too low. Fitting bump stops could require resiting of the sensor bracket.

Investigate

 

87. Oil leak from front of engine. August 2011.

Leak from between bottom of starting handle housing and timing cover. The two bottom bolts pass through the housing and timing cover and are threaded into the crankcase: they were found to be loose and that the thread in the crankcase was effectively stripped. Those fixings are highly stressed as they carry most of the bending load accrued from the front engine mount which is on the nose of the starting handle housing.

It was thought that the crankcase would have to be Helicoiled which would involve taking the engine out and partial stripping: gaskets were ordered from Barrie Price.

Before taking the engine out it was found  that there was good thread in the crankcase beyond the ends of the existing bolts plus a bit of tapping size drilling. The threads were tapped as deep as possible and longer bolts were sourced. This appears to have cured the oil leak but should be watched.

When engine is next out, fit Helicoils to the crankcase for any of the starting handle fixings which screw into it – Loctited studs should be used if practicable.

 

88. Oil and oil filter changed. August 2011.

 

89. Chain tensioning tool. August 2011.

Made to ease task of fitting transmission chain connecting links.  Picture

 

90. Carburettors. August 2011.

Rear carb floods sometimes when petrol pump turned on – OK when engine is running.

Get new needle valve.

Made gauge to check fuel levels in carbs. Picture

New jet seals and seal springs fitted.

 

91 Front number plate. September 2011.

Painted on ali being made. I’m making the plate and painting the black background. Ed Closier will paint he figures.