Bob Kellock's
ex
AndrewHall
Journal
of work done since bought
Things
that need attention
(Green bold type)
Things
that were listed as needing attention and have been done
(Green
bold strikethrough)
Links to associated
documents
Warnings in red
Work or write-up in
progress or a comment
(Italic)
There are many
references to drawings. These were produced using Autocad 2000 and converted to
PDF format. In many instances the items were not made
exactly as drawn particularly in terms of dimensions. Also some drawings were
updated after manufacture and incorporate features that should improve the item
but have not yet been incorporated.
1.
Bought.
2.
Car
collected from Queensgate Place Mews and driven to Fonthill Abbey.
Charging
circuit failed during journey but enough life left in battery to complete
journey.
Fire
extinguisher & bracket removed.
3.
Dynamo removed
and stripped. Brushes very badly worn & stuck in holders.
Front (pulley end) bearing dry and probably knackered.
Brushes
cleaned up bearings lubricated. Dynamo re-installed. Chassis dynamo mountings
are pretty poorly made and belt tensioning is by cable ties!.
Dynamo protection from external oil is by a pendant wadge of gaffer tape!
Charging
still somewhat erratic.
4.
Got
another Lucas C40 dynamo (£8) from Langfords (breakers).
Examination showed it to be in fairly good order. Stripped
it, cleaned, lubricated and painted body. Replaced
pulley with that from the knackered dynamo. Also made and fitted 3
pillars to commutator end plate for fitting a protection plate.
(Protection plate
not yet made - thinking of using part of an old ally saucepan - Done, see
23/07/01)
Chassis dynamo
mountings fettled and new bolts fitted.
Belt
tensioning now by a long Jubilee clip instead of cable ties. Functions OK but is still rather
inelegant so
a
proper belt tensioner should be made.
Done see #26
Charging
still dubious.
5. 18-23/09/00
- Charging and electrics
Took ignition/lighting
switch panel out to determine its functions and made a wiring diagram for the
car. (See
Description
& Drawing). Winston seems to have cocked up a
bit. Switch panel modified and some re-wiring
done as described in those docs.
Kenlowe fan de-wired and removed.
Charging now seems to be OK.
6.
Find out why N/S rear brake is binding.
Had to pull off hub, after making a thrust piece for the puller, as the
brake drum is fitted to it with setscrews & nuts whereas I believe it
should have had studs fitted to the hub.
In due course make a ring with tapped holes in
it, which sits behind the hub, so that the drum can be removed without pulling
off the hub. Use bolts rather than setscrews.
Check if other wheels also need
same treatment.
Done – see 34. Other rear does, fronts are OK (studs)
Made a crude tool for checking concentricity of linings.
Bottom one was way out and did not have a steel pad on the shoe. Even
after making and fitting quite a thick pad (about 3/16") it doesn't look
too good on concentricity.
Braking system needs a good
checkout on all four wheels.
Shoe pull-off springs seem rather pathetic.
Try to get some suitable ones.
Doesn't bind anything as badly as previously.
7.
Made brackets for mounting cast front number plate and fitted it.
Made bridging plates for front floorboard fixings
8.
Reverse gear selector slide tends to move away from disengaged position
when selector finger is on the forward gear side of cheese-cutter sometimes
making it exceedingly difficult to move to the other (reverse) side of the
cheese cutter: also there is a risk of reverse being inadvertently
engaged. Made detent by tapping a hole
in the cheese-cutter & fitting a round head screw to it and filing a
corresponding V slot in the reverse gear slide.
9. 27/09/00 - Wiring and lights
Both sidelamps and one headlamp not working.
In-line connector under front offside bargeboard had corroded contacts.
O/S headlamp wire was to wrong terminal - corrected.
Sidelamps both had bad earths.
Temporarily fixed with shakeproof washers but connection seems to be to
ally mudguard which probably oxidises.
Need to
make good earths.
One tail lamp rear glass missing - has thin pale red plastic glued in.
Made retaining ring and cut a disc out of an old car tail lamp. "Glass" needs to be about 49mm dia
x 3mm thick.
Look for a couple of round translucent reflectors
that are at least that diameter which can be fitted in place of glasses - I
think that reflectors are a legal requirement.
10.
Tax disc holder. Think that rear
part of new (unfitted) tax disc holder that came with car looks rather
ungainly. Made Perspex disc that sits
inside the new holder's bezel (so not seen) with tapped holes for fixing bezel
to it and for fixing it to the car.
Fitted to N/S side of bonnet.
Fitted knob (RS 686-008) to switch that used to be used for Kenlowe fan.
Knob was tapped M4 but screwed on to #10 UNF switch shaft OK!
Found and fitted knob and locknut to starter switch.
Made new bush for radiator mounted central bonnet hinge pin.
11. 30/09/00 -
Made new battery carrier with 1/4" Tufnol base carried on temporary
studding (metric) & spacers (3/8 gas pipe).
Made new battery lead clamp fasteners so that you don't have to get right
into foot well to undo/do up terminals.
Had to disconnect exhaust from engine in the process and found that the
exhaust flange studs were actually studding and that the nuts where some weird
size which no standard Whit/AF/metric spanner fitted.
Need proper studs and nuts. See #14
When refitting exhaust system, cut splits in pipes so that the clamps
actually clamped.
12.
Starter went U/S - possibly because of decent current from new battery. See
Document.
Starter motor had had its locating spigot removed because it has to be
mounted eccentricly in the crankcase hole to get correct meshing of gears.
Fixing holes in starter flange had also been filed out so there is no positive
location of the starter. The crankcase
is tapped for a starter with three fixings but the current one only has two
holes. Starter position has to be got correct for radial meshing by adjusting
before finally tightening set screws - pretty nasty!
Ian Lock (2/10/00) says starter needs moving back a bit from the crankcase
housing to get full axial engagement so an adaptor plate can be made up which
he has done in the past but doesn't have any drawings.
Barry Price (
Starter is working at the moment but I don't think that it will last for
long.
13.
Turned down top of filler cap, fettled and painted. Made new brass vent
for it.
14.
Studs, nuts & gaskets ordered from Barry Price for exhaust flanges.
To be fitted
15.
Breather pipe (connected to blanked off alternative oil filler hole) &
catcher pipe/bottle removed. Connection
blanked with 3/8" BSP brass plug & fibre washer
16. Undated - Steering
Fixed steering wheel rim to spokes after removing tape and ineffective
woodscrews. Drilled out rim and tapped including wooden core. Made brass bushes
- threaded internally and externally. Rim now fixed with countersunk metal
thread screws to spokes.
Plating of spokes is poor. See #47 & #82.
Present nut and bolt fixing of steering hub to column is hideous! Spot
faced sides of steering wheel hub and refitted to column using a stud, crinkle
washers and acorn nuts.
Steering box has more play in it than it should have. Steering removed
from car. Box lid has only two screws - both of which are loose! Decided to use studs and nuts rather than
screws because there is not much depth of thread for screws and some threads in
box are a bit dodgy. Drill and tap them
out a little bit deeper (1/4" Whit). Counterbores for old screw heads not
big enough to get a spanner on to nuts so studs made over-length with spacers
between lid and nuts. Side of box
drilled and tapped BSP and plug fitted for filling box with oil (D140). Meshing of gears adjusted with shims.
Steering box mounting bracket (looks to have been recently made) has
tapped holes for clamping piece which is fixed with bolts. Length of thread engagement is poor and one
has given up already. Dilled and tapped
deeper. Clamp now fixed with studs and nuts.
Steering column bearing slightly misaligned so that side load is being put
on steering box column bearing. Filed out holes in instrument panel and made
stainless cover plate to hide slots in panel. Upper bearing (bush) is also
angularly misaligned with column. Shortened bush and put packing washers
between bracket and rear of instrument panel.
Ideally there should be a UJ at the bottom of the steering column and the
top bearing should be self aligning.
17. Undated - O/S rear brake
Locked up completely on hard application when reversing.
Like the N/S one (see
Made and fitted new thrust plates for both shoes out of 1/8" oil
hardening steel plate.
Made new pull off springs out of old bed springs by prestretching them to
give what seemed a reasonable tension. Note that they must not be too strong
because the hooks which are part of the ali shoe castings are not very strong.
Now seems OK
- the N/S one should have the same treatment.
18. Undated - Front brakes &
braking general
Strictly speaking the Perrot shafts are not Perrot shafts because the
Nash’s Alford & Alder braking system differs from the Perrot system (where
the inboard end of the shaft is located at the chassis rather than the front
axle)
Front brakes stripped down. Claw on
N/S? Perrot shaft had expanded and
mechanism was binding except when wheels straight ahead. Steel sleeve on
outside of ball and claws was damaged.
Reversed steel sleeve after making new anti-rotation slot and general
cleaning up. Perrot shaft claw pressed back to correct shape and cleaned up.
Made brass spacers to replace bits of copper pipe on Perrot shafts.
Drums & linings in good order. Shoes and pivots seem ok. (See 58) Pull
off springs probably a bit on the weak side but not replaced yet.
Operating levers fitted to Perrot shafts had been transposed: actuating
angles were different and not at optimum.
Re-transposed(!)
Both front brake cables are too long. One is at limit of adjustment and
the other is very near.
Need new cables of correct length. (see #85B) Need
blanking plates for bottoms of king pins in stub axles. (see #57)
With rear brake adjustment slackened right off the brake action is quite
spongy. Nearly all of it appears to be
due to distortion of brake drums when braking load is applied. Drums are made of quite thin steel (thought
to have been spun) Radius of drum at
centre of lining expands at least 0.5mm under hard brake application.
Consider alternative brake drums: Triumph Gloria, Riley Pathfinder or
Bentley Mk VI are all said to be adaptable.
Blue Diamond has a set of Pathfinder drums, backplates etc available for
£75.
With a fair amount of fiddling of brake adjustments the performance is now
much better but still has scope for improvement. I suspect that the linings that Andrew had
fitted just before I got the car are too hard.
The Allifin man recommended a type of lining but I failed to note it!
19. Undated - Horn
Old style (rusty) Morris Minor horn got from Langfords (£5). Restored and
painted (painting not very good as pitting of dome can still be seen -
needs improving.)
Mounting bracket made and fitted.
Vintage style (but phenolic instead of Bakelite) horn button got from
Europa Specialist Spares (£20.42).
Wired and wiring diagram updated.
20. Undated
Tapped plates screwed to underside of seat floorboard for fire
extinguisher mounting. Extinguisher can
now be readily removed or fitted.
Tacky aluminium panel fitted to floor for starter switch and isolator
replaced with a decently made one in stainless steel.
Made bush to let into floor for cheese cutter control shaft.
Seat and middle floorboards painted after filling spurious holes
21 Undated - Rocker box
Fit of oil filler cap to rocker box is poor. Rocker box top is convex and
oil filler base is flat.
Machined counterbore in base of filler and made "O" ring which
now provides satisfactory seal.
Cap fixed with stainless steel socket cap screws and acorn nuts.
Rocker box rubbed down working from 80 to 400 grit and finally polished.
22. Undated - Trim
Fixed with #6 raised head self tappers and screw cups. Rear N/S one not
holding well as it had been previously fixed with a #8 screw (the only one for
all the trim!) when the hardboard had been broken. Needs to be sorted
23. Undated - Hood and screen + Aeroscreens
Finally got hood and windscreen.
Drilled through body skin for hood frame pivot bolts.
Jury rigged hood and screen. Screen
does not fit body correctly and hood is too short i.e. screen would have to
right up to edge of scuttle which wouldn't leave enough room to fit the
tonneau.
Pretty pissed off about that as part of the deal was that the hood and
screen were included and, implicitly, suited the car. Contrarily, even if it
did fit, it would probably be almost impossible to get into the car with the
hood up as it no longer has a door.
Allen head of one grub screw clamping banjo of Aeroscreen broke when
trying to loosen it. Couldn't get screw out so ordered new bracket from Vintage
Supplies.
Need
to replace grubscrews with stainless steel ones as the black ones rust &
look pretty nasty.
Fitted all Aersocreen brackets with
better looking screws (round head, nickel plated brass)
24. Undated - Throttle linkage
Cranked rod from pedal to bellcrank replaced with a straight one.
Bellcrank bushed.
Longer rod from bellcrank up to carbs made and lever on butterfly shaft
repositioned - improves geometry as accelerator was too sensitive at small
openings.
Ball joints are in a poor state and have to be adjusted so that they are
quite slack in some positions to avoid binding in others.
Get new ball joints.
25.
MOT - passed without any problems.
26.
Clutch release seems to have got worse and there is a noise which seems to
be coming from it.
(1) Signs of the OD of the unlined plate rubbing on one of the pillar nuts
and the plate appears to be loose relative to the prop shaft.
(2) OD of spigot bearing partially projecting from hub bolted to flywheel.
(3) Fixed plate rubbing quite strongly on rear lined plate when clutch is
fully depressed.
(2) & (3) suspected to be due
to spacer between Hardy-Spicer and bevel box pinion driving flange being too
short.
Probably need spacer of correct width.
Removed complete prop shat/clutch assembly after removing gear change,
handbrake and clutch cross shafts.
Dismantled clutch.
Pillar nuts incorrectly orientated (flats should be facing centre of
plate) - accounts for (1)
Three rivets fixing fixed clutch plate to hub missing and the other three
are loose. Obviously hopelessly bad
rivetting from signs of hammer marks.
Had new rivets put in by Precision Clutch, Stalbridge. (£18.80)
Orientation of pillar nuts corrected which will fix (1)- used Studlock on
them.
Clutch separator springs fitted (over pillars of toggles) Each half length of RS Components 121-185.
17.25mm OD 1.25 dia wire.
N/S end of clutch cross shaft and bracket were fouling body making it
almost impossible to get the assembly back into the car - filed them down.
Made crude main clutch spring compressor tool.
(Drawing)
Clutch release now better (but still scope for improvement) & noise
has gone.
Check to see if wider spacer would be
beneficial. Try some washers as a first (temporary) step
Made plain protection plate for rear of dynamo (see
and a proper belt tensioning device.
Further work in dynamo in #63
Made proper battery box mounting studs, spacers etc i.e stainless and
aluminium (see #11) + battery lifter as it's a pig to get in and out.
27. 29/07/01+ Starter
Starter failed again (as predicted -see #12). Tried fitting the starter from Barry Price:
mounting flange is correct but pinion (same as the old starter) is too big.
Used body and brush plate of Barry's starter with armature and front plate of
old starter as the latter has been hacked about to allow it to be offset from
the centre of the housing bore.
Present pinion has 10 teeth - possibly a 9 tooth
one (if ever made) might give the right mesh or a 10 tooth one of
smaller D.P. Investigate
pinions No suitable pinion available for size of motor shaft.
Oil leaking from rocker cover
-
replace gasket
Seemingly no smaller pinions were
made for the M418 starter motor. The Meadows literature states that the starter
pinion has 10 teeth but it seems probable that it was a smaller diameter than
that of the M418 starter as the drive shaft was much smaller. The only practical solution appears to be to make
a spigotted offset adaptor. A suggestion for the design and method of
manufacture was sent to Winston Teague - see
Drawing.
28.
From or near bottom rad hose connection - investigate.
29.
Stainless grubscrews received and fitted to all but the bracket with the
broken screw.
Need to fit the new bracket which came from Vintage Supplies.
30.
New bracket fitted.
31. A loud clank coming from the rear the first time the brakes are
applied fairly hard after the car has been unused for a day or two – this is
the first time of noting it although it’s been happening for a while –
investigate
– see #33.
32. January 02
Speedometer
Made dashboard mounting for bicycle speedo and fitted speed pickup to N/S
of rear axle. Used RS 361-4933 reed
switch and matching magnet (361-7011)
instead of supplied bicycle switch & magnet. Bracketry for it &
dash mounting in Drawing. Only temporarily wired –
to be done properly.
A long period of Nash inactivity followed
while I was doing up Notting Hill to sell followed by refurbishing the Elms.
August/Sept/Oct 04
33. Made rear jacking block. Pulled
off rear hubs and drums to investigate clank – nothing obvious in there but
noticed that O/S Hartford was virtually solid and suspect that that may have
been the cause of the clank noted in #33.
All 4 Hartfords to be
overhauled – rear upper mountings look as though they need some beefing up.
34. Made new rear brakedrum bolt retainers. Drawing. Also see #6.
The hub retaining nuts on the ends of the rear axle are 7/8 x 14 TPI so
are, presumably, UNF. Decided to use plain nuts with Nordlock anti-vibration
washers instead of castellated & split pins.
UNF nuts
& Nordlocks to be obtained.
Check periodically that they are tight
35. Removed engine for various mods etc. Rear O/S engine mounting thread
in crankcase knackered.
Both rear engine
mount threads (1/2” BSF) to be Helicoiled. Lower
radiator mounts to be improved.
35A. Made new clamp for holding
distributor drive to magneto platform. Modified distributor and made new clamp
to replace hideous Lucas one - Drawing.
36. Removed magneto drive for painting.
Suspected there was something wrong & stripped it to find that it
was a crackpot design – see Drawing and Description. Painted body and rebuilt with new (sealed) bearings with mods as
shown in Instructions
having made mandrels and guides for dismantling and assembling.
37. Polished or painted various engine accessories.
38. Drilled though tee bolt holding front offside core cap and fitted
brass dome nut so that block can be drained.
39. Made new rear endplate for cylinder head and pipework in 54mm copper
pipe & end feed elbows to replace hideous convoluted hose which chafed on
various things and hid the dipstick. Cut
away part of the (unused) front offside engine mount to provide clearance.
There is a clamp for the 54mm pipe fitted to the brass cover of the original
oil filter housing which was very thin were drilled for fixing the clamp –
soldered in a thick steel washer to beef it up.
Note that front ouside nut for filter cover is ¼ BSF tapped out to 5/16
as there isn’t room for a spanner for a full size nut. The brazing of the elbow to the new rear
endplate (done by Allan at Semley) wasn’t very neat so it was tidied with
Plastic padding. Fitted drain plug to lower part of pipe.
40. Made new bracket for oil filter.
41. Made threaded bush & fitted to bulkhead so that radiator tie rod
can be removed/fitted without struggling to get at the nut under the scuttle.
42. O/S front mudguard stay modified (by Allan at Brian Trowbridge, Semley)
so that it doesn’t clash with the draglink ( Drawing)
43. Made new ¼” BSP brass plugs (to replace cut off bits of ½” UNF
screws!) to blank balance pipe? holes in
intake spigots of cylinder heads. Hex
heads were milled by Mitchells at Chicklade.
(Drawing)
44. Modified one starter motor (using the flange which had been graunched
by Andrew Hall) per Drawing.
Spare starter (with 3 bolt
flange) to be done.
45. Noticed that magnet of speedo pickup clashes with side of undertray
when axle at full rebound
– undertray to be modified.
46. Designed new carburettor adaptor flanges (Drawing) as those made by Andrew were
hideous and could not be modified because the counterbores were so large that
there was practically no meat between them and the main bore. Nick Ourousoff is turning and drilling the
blanks.
Blanks subsequently received, profiled and fitted.
47. Steering wheel plating to be sorted.
See #82
48. Clutch
Dismantled clutch to modify it to prevent the “Clutch accident”. Noticed that the centre plate key had sheared
despite the nut having been tight and (I think) the tapers having been lapped
when previously assembled. Needed a
press to break the taper (The Landrover place at Semley).
Keyways in hub and shaft are slightly different widths and old key (bits
lost when plate pressed off) could have been made of mild steel so might have
sheared when tightened up.
Get proper key steel – see #64.
Fulcrum pins of clutch not long enough for the standard mod. of drilling
cross holes and fitting split pins. Ends
of fulcrum pins tapped M5 and ¾” thick washers made and fixed to fulcrum pins
with countersunk socket head screws – Loctited.
49. Undertray modded – see #45.
50. Carb flange blanks received
from Nick. (see 46) Profiles cut and
studs(3/8 BSF threads but 10mm shank) made.
51. Pivot pins for front brake Perrot shaft levers to cables made (Drawing)
52. Bottom radiator fixings made (Drawing)–
rubber washers made from an old engine mount. (see 35)
53. Exhaust manifold studs fitted (see 14)
54. New studs made for water plates fitted to front & rear of cylinder
head.
55. New brace for front cross member
made out of 1” x 1” x 7/32 stainless steel angle.
November 2004.
56. New blanking plate for original dynamo mount made. Sealed by O ring
fitting in bore of housing. Drawing
57. Front hubs & stub axles
Removed front hubs and backplates.
Made & fitted new blanking plates for bottoms of king pins in stub axles
(see 18) and for speedometer drive housings in backplates.
The hub/stub axle arrangement (Drawing) appears
to be non-standard The inboard bearing is a 6206 which is normal Nash but the
outboard is an LJ6 which matches the
stub axle but the hub has been sleeved down from the normal Nash 6204 OD to
that of the LJ6. The main castellated hub nut is 5/8” x 22 ?? TPI but 7/16W
hex. which is neither BSF nor UNF ???. Holes in hubs do not align with split
pin holes in in stub axles. Had holes elongated by Mitchells. The hub
backplates appear to have been made fairly recently, e.g. when Andrew Hall
built the car, and there are no oil seals.
Obtain and fit new sealed
bearings (remove inner seals).
Made new washers for either sides of outboard bearings.
58. Front brakes
More or less contrarily to what was said in #18, the shoes and cams are
not in good order. The corner radii of the cams, which are the critical parts,
are fairly rough and the cast-in steel pads at the end of the shoes are rutted
by the cams. Removed the ruts by filing and
sanding (Drawing).
Investigated radii of brake cams to give equal movement for both shoes for
given rotation of cam (see Workshop manual page 61). Those shown in Drawing give a very good
approximation to identical motion. Baynton-Jones in Shaftesbury could grind
them for about £150.
Nick Ourousoff is going to reprofile them for me.
58A. Bought brand new C40 dynamo on Ebay (£16 + p&p) –
to be fitted.
59. Fitted Helicoils for rear engine mountings in crankcase. Made locking tabs for rear engine mounting
bolts – see Drawing.
60. TDC finder, timing pointer etc.
There is no TDC or any other timing marker. Made TDC finder & pointer.
Painted roots of starter ring teeth with TDC and colour coding for ignition
timing – see Drawing.
61. Made tappet adjusting tool – see Drawing.
62. Dipstick was a very rattly fit in the crankcase. Made two sleeves with
an ‘O’ ring trapped between them which fit over the original shaft. Also turned
down original shaft in locality of ‘O’ ring to make a good fit with the ring.
Lower sleeve fixed to original shaft with countersunk M2.5 screw –
Loctited.
‘O’ ring is BS210 nitrile.
63. Made new dynamo mounting bracket & one long bolt + spacer for
fitting dynamo to bracket. When removing/fitting the dynamo remove/fit dynamo
complete with bracket. The two bolts for fixing the bracket to the chassis are
specials and are prevented from rotating by one flat being adjacent to one of
the lugs.
Fitted the new dynamo after making new studs in stainless
steel for protection plate and tensioner bracket in light alloy as previously
made ones (in plain steel) were rusting.
64.Made new stepped key for centre clutch plate to propshaft.
Drawing.
.
65. Undertray was in a very poor state particularly where Andrew had cut a
bit out of the side to fit his high-tech dynamo belt tensioner i.e. cable ties.
It was also fairly badly cracked in several places. The tray is attached to a lightweight
sub-frame which also carries the petrol tank and tail lamps. The workmanship of the frame is not very good
but it is adequate for its purpose. The fixings of the tray to frame were poor
(cable ties at the rear!) and most had worked loose or come out altogether.
The fixings of the sub-frame to the chassis at the back (the two in the
middle of the A-frame and the two diagonal braces) were difficult to undo and
would be a nightmare to replace because of difficult access to the nuts and the
need for some force to get alignment between the sub-frame and chassis holes.
The nuts have now been replaced by tapped blocks fixed to the chassis and
podging screws (i.e. screws with their leading ends turned down to root
diameter and a point) have been made.
The front tubular cross-member of the sub-frame extended beyond the fixing
lugs and had gusset plates welded on which made it impossible to get a socket
onto the fixing bolts. As the gussets were superfluous they were cut off.
The tail lamp brackets welded to the sub-frame prevented removal of the
petrol tank without detaching the sub-frame.
About the last 2” of the frame tubing with lamp brackets were cut off and
modified to be bolted. Fixings are M6 S/S cap screws.
Undertray sub-frame shot blasted and zinc sprayed
The tray is now fixed to the subframe using clamping strips and fasteners
with Nylocs (because the sub-frame tubing is very light gauge the fasteners
cannot be done up tight enough to prevent vibration loosening without
distorting the tube). The worst of the
cracks in the tray have been plated over.
A new tray should be made in due course but is of fairly
low priority.
When fitting sub-frame to chassis:
1. Insert and finger tighten the two front fixings.
2. Insert and finger tighten the two A-frame fixings (shorter ¼ BSF podging screws)
3. Insert and finger tighten the two diagonal struts (longer ¼ BSF podging screws)
4. Insert and finger tighten the vertical screws into the short uprights (3/8 BSF podging screws)
5. Spanner tighten up all fixings
67.
Not used
|
Items covered by #68 to #85 were previously written up but got trashed and have been rewritten; they are not in chronological order. |
68. Petrol tank,
piping and rear number plate
The weld of one of the studdings (MS) to the tank retaining straps (SS) was about to
break. Cut new studdings from M6 stainless and had them TIG welded by Mitchells
(£25).
Drilled new holes in cast number plate (from front of car)
with corresponding ones in the straps and fitted it to the rear of the car.
This replaces the nasty plastic stick-on figures on the petrol tank. The
plastic black-on-white number plate which Jimmy Lever had made for me has been
fitted at the front
pending getting a proper
one.
There was no positive location for the rear of the tank (when
viewing from the back of the car). Made rubber stops.
The tank had a slight seep around the drain plug which had
been unsuccessfully sealed with what looked like Plastic Padding. Stripped the
PP off and painted around the joint with Frost’s POR-15 which is flexible –
seems to have worked OK but should have periodic
inspection.
Most of the petrol pipe routing and workmanship was
atrocious. All the pipework from the carbs to the pump is new. Rather than
leaving it routed around the O/S engine mount the mount was drilled and tapped
BSP so that fuel runs through it. New pipework clipped to the chassis. Fuel pump fixings modified as it was a
struggle to get if on or off.
69. Bulkhead, radiator tie rod fittings and ignition coil
wiring
Made new clips to fasten water temp gauge capillary to the
radiator tie rod plus a bracket to support the rev counter cable - see Drawing.
Moved ignition coil from its former position and made new
brass bracket for it (Drawing).
Ignition coil painted black.
Wire from ignition coil to switch now routed through a bush
in the bulkhead.
Lead from ignition coil to distributor now clipped using
lower carburettor fixing studs.
HT lead from coil to distributor now in length of 10mm copper
tube with bellmouth ends. Tube is clipped to rear of upper carburettor fixing
studs.
Pipe to oil pressure gauge now via a bulkead fitting and
banjo unions.
Bulkhead fitting made for rev counter cable and temp gauge
capillary.
Spacers made for voltage regulator mounting as, when bolted
without them, there’s a likelyhood of cracking the plastic.
70. Exhaust system
Made new brass clip for exhaust pipe tail.
Made new mounting which supports the exhaust in front of the
front silencer using a rubber “cotton reel” mount plus strap and exhaust pipe
clamp.
71. Wrinkly step
Made a step for easier getting in and out of the car. Uses a
modified cast alloy step from Complete Automobilist (Part no. CA747). Original
design (Drawing) was a drop off because the brake cables
weren’t in position and I forgot to allow for them. The step is readily detachable when not
wanted.
72. Headlamps and sidelamps wiring and mounting
The original headlamp mounting lugs were welded to the cross
tube so there was no provision for adjusting their vertical angle. All wiring
was external and clipped with cable
ties.
Chopped off the lugs and fitted Rose+Krieger type RXE 0025
cross clamps after boring them out and painting. They allow for adjustment in
pitch and yaw.
Stanchions drilled and bushed near their tops to allow cables
to be routed internally.
Made new terminal blocks for the headlamps (Drawing) with three terminals
instead of the original two in anticipation of having the headlamps modified to
take double filament bulbs.
Copper pipe (1/4” ?) soldered to the underside of the cross
tube as a conduit for the cables from the headlamp terminals to the side lamps.
Individual cables (2 core as I didn’t have any suitable 3
core) for each side now run down each stanchion (which are bushed at their
bottom) and are terminated with a 3 pin circular plug which is small enough to
pass through the stanchion bracket.
Wiring from the lighting switch is into a small plastic box
mounted on the inside of the chassis frame on the offside close to the
radiator: the box has two sockets to mate with the plugs.
Currently
the box is cracked and needs replacing.
The offside stanchion bracket clamp wouldn’t clamp the
stanchion properly and a sleeve was made to take up the slack.
The lower ends of the stanchion brackets have been fitted
with M6 grub screws to provide additional support and a positive earthing
contact. They must be slackened to remove the
stanchions.
73. Steering arms, drag link and track rod
New springs fitted to ends of drag link and track rod.
It was impossible to adjust the track rod
screwed cups because of their proximity to the brake backplates: a tool was
made for this purpose (Drawing).
A tool (Drawing) for extracting the steering
arms from the stub axles was also made from an old extremely heavy duty G
cramp.
74. Countershaft
There was excessive axial play in the
reverse gear shaft: brass spacer made to take it up.
The grease nipple of the offside
chassis mounted bearing was inaccessible and a mod was made so it could be
readily greased.
75. Spare wheel mounting
A new leather strap arrangement was
made, very nicely, by Craig Leary.
The front support bracket was modified
because the spare rubbed on the body. This was a minor drop-off as it is now
difficult to lower the nearside bonnet without loosening the spare.
76. Jacking the car
Although I’d made a piece of timber
that fitted under the undertray sub-frame which is OK in the garage for lifting
the rear end it would be useless with a flat tyre without an extremely short
jack and would also need to be carried in the car.
A Citroen 2CV jack has been modified so
that the drive hex is reorientated by 180° and a bracket has been made to hook
under the front axle (Drawing).
For the rear wheels remove the rear
floorboard section and insert the jack so that its hook fits under the outer
radius arm plate. Insert a piece of card (old fag packet) between the jack head
and the body trim so that it doesn’t get scratched.
Ensure
that the jack hook is properly engaged with the radius arm.
The jack, the front
axle adaptor. the
wheel spinner clouter and spanners are stored under the seats floorboard (see Drawing
and
Picture). A stubby screwdriver is stored
on the nearside of the car tucked between the body panel and framework just
beyond the dashboard.
The screwdriver can be used to remove
the three floorboard fixings and the jack from its mounts. The two spanners are
retained by a wing nut. The 10mm is needed to release the clouter and the front
axle adapter. The 19mm ratchet spanner is for operating the jack.
76. Floorboards and fixings (see
Drawing)
Plates to cover joints at fixing points for sections 1 to 2
and 2 to 3 were made previously – item
#7.
There was no rear fixing for section 3 on which the seats are
mounted which made the seats unstable. As there was no room for access for
fixings at the sides because of the seats a central fixing was made – see
detail “E”.
Sections 4 and 5 were fixed with 5/16 setscrews with their
heads projecting above the boards. They are now fixed with countersunk M5
screws with screw cups in the boards. The sloped part of section 5 is now
properly fixed to the flat part.
77. Bargeboards and bonnet
It was impossible to remove the N/S bargeboard without
detaching the exhaust pipes from the engine. Its bearer has now been sawn in
half so it is now possible to remove it after removing the fixings for the N/S
lower bonnet side panel.
The O/S bargeboard can be removed without detaching the drag
link
but, for both bargeboards, it is somewhat of a
Chinese puzzle to get them out or in.
The N/S lower bonnet side panel flapped about a lot: The
front and rear edges have been stiffened up with light alloy strip and a
central fixing to the engine has been made.
A new bonnet tape was fitted to the radiator.
The top
front N/S corner of the bonnet was damaged when in storage and needs to be
repaired.
The
bonnet catches need attention.
78. Electrics. (Drawing).
Control panel: Track from A (ammeter+) to A1 (centres of the ignition and lighting
switches) cut. Added wire from A1 of the control panel to A1 of the voltage
regulator. That makes the system comply with the normal Lucas arrangement when
using a RB106 voltage regulator.
Clips and guide made for starter motor cable. Starter motor
terminal insulated.
Because of difficult access to the battery, jumper
lead/battery charging terminals have been added to the floor panel near the battery isolator switch. (see Drawing). The insulated caps can be
unscrewed to connect jumper leads but
charging can be carried out with them in position using 4mm banana plugs
through the holes in the caps.
Wiring to the head and sidelamps changed – see item #72.
A new starter motor cover
strap was made to replace the rather tacky Lucas one. (see
Drawing)
Note that the
dynamo, starter motor and voltage regulator are now all new with the exception
of the flange of the starter motor which is from an older one which was
modified per item #44.
79. Stoplamp switch mounting.
Adjustable bracket made – see
Drawing.
80. Tool for centreing propshaft front spigot bearing.
Self aligning bearing doesn’t self align when trying to
insert propshaft. Made tool to hold it aligned during insertion.
81. Gear lever and handbrake fixings & caps
Made blanking caps to cover ends of tubular cross shafts.
Fixings are now studs with acorn nuts at both ends.
82. Steering wheel spokes
As noted in item #16 the plating was poor and it has since
got much worse. As the ends are coated in celluloid it couldn’t be replated
without recoating the ends.
Scraped and sanded the worst of the loose plating but quite a
bit remained. Has been painted but still looks a bit tacky. Made a ring from
about 1mm stainless to cover the area where it bolts to the hub. Also made a
new hub.
Steering
wheel to be refurbished when there’s some spare cash.
83.
Not used.
84. Hartfords and rear mounts
Hartfords were stripped and the worst of the rust on the
steel friction faces was sanded off – see Drawing.
New Beech discs were made to replace any in a poor state –
immersed in oil for several days before fitting.
Locknuts for the friction adjustment were made by drilling
and tapping M12 nuts to M14x1.5
The spacers used for for the chassis mount at the rear were
rather poor. New ones made – see Drawing.
85. Brakes
85A. Brake drums/shoes
concentricity
Rear brake shoes and linings were known to be appreciably
eccentric to the drums - see item #6
A ring of 10mm mild steel was made with the same bore as the
brake drums and a concentric OD: it was scribed at 5° intervals and angular
values were marked.
A fixture was made which, at one end, bolts to the brakedrum flange and at the other
carries a clock gauge and a counterbalance was made enabling the gauge to be
stable at any angle (see Picture).
A lever was made to actuate the brake plus an arrangement to
apply a repeatable load (see Picture)
When the ring is placed over the brake shoes and lever is
used to expand them then its OD is concentric with the effective centre of the
shoes and linings. When the axle is rotated the clock gauge measures the
relative eccentricity between the linings and the axis of the axle: the latter
is also the centre of the brakedrum when fitted.
The ring is orientated so that the 0° line faces the brake
shoe pivot.
A computer programme was written (BRAKES3.EXE*) which enables the clock gauge readings to be input
for each angular step and then calculates the eccentricity and shows the result
typically as :-
Move shoes
0.835 towards 90 degrees point
Move shoes
0.126 towards 180 degrees point
Obviously it is not practicable to move the shoes in the
0°/180° direction as that would require the fulcrum pin (which also serves
other purposes) to be moved but they can be effectively moved in the 90°/270°
by thickening the steel pad on one of the brake shoes: it is probably more
important that the error is smaller in the latter direction anyway.
During testing the thickness of the steel pad can be
effectively increased by placing packing between the pad and brake pad and repeating the test and thickness of the
packing until the optimum result has been achieved. A new pad can then be made
with a thickness of the old one plus that of the packing.
Packing between the top shoe and cam moves the effective
centre of the shoes down (towards the 270°point) and vice versa.
* Brakes3.exe is a 16 bit DOS programme which may
not work on more recent versions of Windoze, or computers running under
different operating systems, without an additional utility for running DOS
programmes e.g. DOSbox (which is free).
A similar arrangement was made for the front brakes (The ring
was made from an old alloy car wheel and
has an oversize bore due to a machining drop off but there are brass shims to
correct the error) See
picture
and
picture.
Although eccentricity was found for both sides at the front
it was a good deal less at the back. It would
really need to have eccentric fulcrum pins made with lots of trial and
error. As the front brakes are now working well and the flexibility of the
drums probably compensates for the eccentricity, no further work is planned.
85B. Brakes – odd jobs
Following on from item #58 the front brake cams were reground
by Nick. Combined with cleaning up the pads on the shoes improved the braking
performance considerably.
Brake lever pivots were rather poor – just bolts and nuts.
New ones made – see Drawing.
Had front brake cables
shortened by Speedy Cables instead of getting
new ones as proposed in item #18.
One of the N/S rear brake shoes had a crack. Made pieces of steel to match
the shape of the shoe around the cracked area, glued in with Araldite plus
screwed fixings.
Rear footbrake cables were (and still are) a bit nasty. They look as
though they came from a yacht chandler; they are OK at the rear end but at the
front they are wrapped around 3/8” screw eyes (threaded BSF) and have a cable
clamp. The fairly long loose ends were wrapped, ineffectively, with wire and
insulating tape! The wrapping has been replaced by stainless steel sleeves.
Need proper cables.
85C. Brakes – adjustments
With a solid rear axle it’s impossible to know how much braking effort is
applied at each rear drum using any conventional brake tested. A
point-and-shoot laser thermometer is used to check and adjust the rear balance
and is also useful for checking the front balance.
Braking tests were carried out using a Tapley meter independently for the
front and rear ends by completely slackening the adjusters for the end not
being tested: Tapley breaking performance for various settings of the adjusters
were recorded. Both sets were then set up with the aim of getting 60:40 balance
of front and rear.
Managed to achieve nearly 85% efficiency on the Tapley.
86. Ignition timing gauge. July 2011
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For setting the timing when the automatic advance is in the
fully retarded position
Is located by partially encircling the stem of the
distributor – which has an index line – and by an adjustable stop on the underside
which is pressed against the body of the distributor housing.
Calibration: Provided that the distributor has not been
removed or it has been removed but the engine not turned and it has been
replaced with the distributor arm pointing in the same direction as before
removal (a one tooth error on meshing of
the gears is about xxx°of distributor rotation so it is easy to see if it is
wrong) the procedure is:
(1) Ensure that the distributor is
set to roughly the same position as it was previously.
(2) Start the engine and adjust the distributor position
until it will hold a steady idle speed.
(3) Check the actual advance angle using a strobe from
cylinder #1 and noting the colour sequence of the flywheel tooth gullies
centred on the timing pointer. Use drawing
to convert the colour sequence to the advance angle.
(4) Adjust the stop position of the gauge so that the
indicated advance angle matches the angle obtained from (3).
86. Speedometer and bump stops. August 2011.
Speedometer stopped working. Preliminary inspection showed
that the cable from the sensor bracket to the junction box had been damaged
without apparent cause. A replacement sensor, with integral cable, was bought
plus a length of Entex spring part #2605 to sheath and protect the cable.
When it came to fitting the new parts it was noticed that the
sensor bracket had been bent also and it seems
that on extreme bump it can come into contact with the Admiral’s arch. When
that occurs the suspension spring deflection is very large (about xxx” from the
static position) which is thought to be excessive. That could be avoided by
fitting bump stops or, possibly increasing the setting on the Hartfords which
may be too low. Fitting bump stops could require resiting of the sensor
bracket.
Investigate
87. Oil leak from front of engine. August 2011.
Leak from between bottom of starting handle housing and
timing cover. The two bottom bolts pass through the housing and timing cover
and are threaded into the crankcase: they were found to be loose and that the
thread in the crankcase was effectively stripped. Those fixings are highly
stressed as they carry most of the bending load accrued from the front engine
mount which is on the nose of the starting handle housing.
It was thought that the crankcase would have to be Helicoiled
which would involve taking the engine out and partial stripping: gaskets were
ordered from Barrie Price.
Before taking the engine out it was found that there was good thread in the crankcase beyond
the ends of the existing bolts plus a bit of tapping size drilling. The threads
were tapped as deep as possible and longer bolts were sourced. This appears to
have cured the oil leak
but should be watched.
When engine is next out, fit Helicoils to the
crankcase for any of the starting handle fixings which screw into it – Loctited
studs should be used if practicable.
88. Oil and oil filter changed. August 2011.
89. Chain tensioning tool. August 2011.
Made to ease task of fitting transmission chain connecting
links.
Picture
90. Carburettors. August 2011.
Rear carb floods sometimes when petrol pump turned on – OK
when engine is running.
Get new needle valve.
Made gauge to check fuel levels in carbs.
Picture
New jet seals and seal springs fitted.
91 Front number plate. September 2011.
Painted on ali being
made. I’m making the plate and painting the black background. Ed Closier will
paint he figures.